Monday, August 24, 2020

Fixing Steam 0 bytes available disk space issue when removing a drive from the system





 Ran into an issue this weekend, so I'm memorializing it here. 

I had two drives in my system, one SSD for the OS and one high capacity spinning drive for secondary, slower storage. The second drive is where I put my Steam Library.

I pulled the drive this weekend to put into another machine I'm using for temporary file storage while I migrate Synology servers (longer story). This 1TB drive was holding my Steam Library.


I went into Steam, and Steam recognized that the SteamLibrary folder was no longer present and set the default back to the C:\ drive. I thought I was all good.

Fast forward a week and I have picked up a used NVidia card, and wanted to test it out. Went to download/reinstall the game and Steam says there's "0 bytes available" even though there's no other Steam folder, and the DEFAULT is set to the C:\ drive.


Here's what I did, that wasn't covered by other posts and threads I found: 


1) Go to Steam Settings

2) then Downloads

3) then click Steam Library Folders


4) then right-click on the directory shown and click on Make Default Folder. (yes, yes, even though it says it's already the default)

5) then right-click on the directory again and click on Repair Library Folder. Steam will restart.

You're done. Try installing games again.



Sunday, January 26, 2020

Synology, Mac OS X, OpenVPN and Tunnelblick

I'm putting this here so it shows up in your chosen search engine more easily.

If you have a Synology NAS, have the VPN Server installed, configured OpenVPN and use an Apple Macbook with OSX with Tunnelblick as your VPN client, you've probably seen this message:
Warning: This VPN may not connect in the future. The OpenVPN configuration file for 'Undercity OpenVPN' contains these OpenVPN options: 'comp-lzo' was deprecated in OpenVPN 2.4 and removed in OpenVPN 2.5 You should update the configuration so it can be used with modern versions of OpenVPN. Tunnelblick will use OpenVPN 2.4.4 - OpenSSL v1.0.2n to connect this configuration. However, you will not be able to connect to this VPN with future versions of Tunnelblick that do not include a version of OpenVPN that accepts the options.
All you have to do to ensure compression is enabled, through the config file is to replace one line in the ovpn config file you're using. Replace the line with
comp-lzo
with 
compress lzo
You won't have the warning message show up in the Log window after that.

Chris

Tuesday, March 13, 2018

LABRAT graffiti up and down Puget Sound

Rail bridge over I-5 South with
LABRAT KNATS graffiti.
Living in Puget Sound over the last decade, I've noticed tagging and graffiti with LABRAT or LABRAT KNATS across bridges downtown, by Lacey (picture below, the site of the recent train derailment) and down to Olympia, Washington (State).

To be clear, this graffiti is not mine, or is it associated with me. Just in case there was any question... (ha ha, lol)

(photo credit: Wikipedia)

Synology Let's Encrypt SSL certificate failure and ASUS AC68U

So...I was running my own SSL cert from a free SSL certificate provider SSLForFree.com but thought I'd try the built in capability of my Synology DS413J to provision one from Let's Encrypt for free.

I walked through the menus to find the Control Panel, Security, and Certificates tab. Once I walked through adding/replacing a cert, I receive this error:


For clarity, this is what it says:
     Get a Certificate from Let's Encrypt
   
     Failed to connect to Let's Encrypt. Please make sure your DiskStation and router have port 80
     open to Let's Encrypt domain validation from the Internet. All the other communications with
     Let's Encrypt go over HTTPS to keep your DiskStation secure.

I originally was thinking my router, an Asus AC68U, wasn't capable of forwarding port 80 because it uses that port for the web interface. Turns out that later software updates fixed this issue and is now able to pass the traffic from outside:80->Synology:80. All good.

I made sure Web Station was running. And it still failed.

Turns out, I think the biggest issue was that even though the screen suggests you should just use your top TLD, you really need to put in your full FQDN in both the domain name and the alternative subject name fields.

Then the wizard worked like a charm.

Good luck!
Chris

Friday, November 25, 2016

Kenwood TK-890 Amateur Radio Mod (repost)

(Now reposted/moved to my site focused on ham radio, ZebrasRunningWild. cg)

 I'm a ham radio operator and have been since 1987, when I got my Novice ticket in rural South Dakota (SD) at 14 years old. It's been a fun hobby, even though I took a break from roughly 1993-2013. So...to the point...

I went to the Mike and Key Ham Fest down in Puyallup, WA in the spring of 2015. Before I showed up there, I had been thinking about a GMRS license and radios for the family. I picked up a Kenwood TKR-820 repeater, already programmed to the GMRS repeater frequencies.

Kenwood TK-790/890 control head options, basic and advanced.
I also picked up 4 Kenwood TK-890 radios. I got a "good deal". They didn't come with microphones, but I didn't see that as a big deal...while I was at the ham fest. Once I got home, I found out differently. This particular breed of radio, as a result of the genius of Kenwood, doesn't have a standard microphone plug. As a result, microphones cost $65+ each. And the aftermarket doesn't make them. Stupid. I found a lot of 7 on eBay, for a reasonable price, so now I'm in action.

Anyway, this is a repost of an article I found on a blogspot post about how to tune the TK-890 to the high end of the 70cm ham bands. That article has since disappeared and the blogspot site is no longer in existence...so, I'm reposting the content here. (Thankfully, PDF'ed the article!)

Original article:
(from Wirelessness blog from W6DTW, originally at http://sparqi.blogspot.com/2013/05/tk-890-amateur-radio-mod.html)

Over the past weekend a friend of mine asked if I would help him convert his Kenwood TK-890 mobile to work on the ham bands. I wasn't sure how successful we'd be, since most every online search came up with at best little information or at worst flat out statement saying "Nope, can't be done." As it turns out, it can't be done. Kudos to Time K for his notes posted to Radio Reference [cg, I also placed the relevant content at the end] which gave enough hints to make this happen.

In general this is how it went. My friend wanted his radio to work on the Bay-Net repeater system, which operates 443.225 with a +5 MHz TX split. TX was fine, but RX was giving a steady "beep-beep-beep..." which indicates PLL unlock.

In the PLL section, under the copper foil, [cg, for the record, mine weren't) are three adjustment pots: A = TC302, B = TC303, and C = TC301. (Don't ask why they're out of order.) According to the Service Manual, Pot A sets the PLL for the low end of the receiver range, Pot B set the high end of the receiver range, and Pot C sets the TX PLL. The goal is to monitor testpoint CV with a voltmeter and adjust for minimum voltage during RX and TX. This requires reprogramming the radio's test frequencies to match the band of interest, so you'll need the [KPG-44] software and [KPG-4] cable.

Once we had the PLL voltages minimized for RX and TX, I found that the radio's TX frequency was way off, so a frequency alignment was needed. This again required the [KPG-44] software - for some reason we couldn't get the radio in to Panel Test/Tune via the control head. It was easy enough with the KPG, once we realized you need to press "Enter" to lock the modified value.

Other things like adjusting the BPF and checking deviations should be done. In the end, the conversation was very easy and the radio is working well on the UHF amateur band.

[cg Adding this here, to make it more complete, and have information all in one place.]
From Radio Reference:
From ramal121:
"The VCO can be adjusted fairly easy with a volt meter. You just program your highest and lowest frequencies, monitor the VCO steering line voltage, check high and low (both TX and RX) and see if the voltage stays within specs. There are tweekers for both TX and RX to achieve this. And yes, if you lower your VCO's range, you will lose the top freqs, the VCO can only swing so far."

From Tim K:

Thursday, November 3, 2016

For the record...HP Elitebook 840 G3 BIOS update

HP, in their wisdom, decided that a standard laptop BIOS update should sound like you're bricking your device. So, I'm posting this here so it will get picked up by Google and people don't need to freak out as much as I did. My experience was I ran the BIOS update, the machine started beeping with the screen blank and then I panicked, trying to figure out what I should do. After a bit of work, I found out that this is completely normal for these laptops, for this BIOS update. It is not normal in the world of systems BIOS updates, by any means.

Comment here if you have the same or a different experience.

- Run BIOS update
- Warning about bitlocker being suspended temporarily.
- Update completes
- Machine reboots automatically
- Screen blanks
- 2 long beeps, 2 short beeps x 5
- Reboot
- 1 long beep, 2 short beeps
- 2 long beeps, 2 short beeps x 4
- Reboot x 2
- Full, white screen notification of DXE update
- Reboot
- Back to Windows login

Chris

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Putting this here: Shuttle XPC Glamor Series SN68SG2 and Windows 10

I have a Shuttle XPC Glamor Series SN68SG2 that I've had for years. I originally built it in 2008 as a Windows Home Server box. 

As time has gone on, I turned into a workstation for mundane tasks, such as running the weather station interface software, or USB-to-Serial cables for programming the scanner, ham and GMRS radios.

This went from Windows Home Server to Windows 7 to Windows 10 with the free upgrade. Since the upgrade to Windows 10, I've had issues with the Start Menu and Cortana. I tried a number of fixes, but nothing really worked. I even went so far as reloading the system with a fresh copy of Windows 10.

I had just been resigned to getting the weather station software fired up and running and then not interacting with it until I needed to restart the software and computer.

Turns out I think it's been a video driver related problem all along. I installed an older, alternative video card and the start menu is magically working again. I used an ATI Radeon X1300/X1550 PCIe video card that had two SVGA cables when it was on Windows 7 and it worked well. This video card doesn't have any valid or supported Windows 10 drivers...but since Windows 10 knows that, it kicked the video driver back to the generic, lower resolution driver.

Start menu works like a champ so far and its been a couple days, which is a couple days longer than it had been working before.

Given all that, I'll be on the hunt for a cheap and/or free low profile PCIe video card for this machine.

Good luck!
Chris